Alexander Gubaev
1964–2004
Alexander Rafaelovich Gubaev — Candidate Master of Sports in Mountaineering of the Kyrgyz Republic, "Snow Leopard". A graduate of the "Polytechnic" section (head – A. Tustukbaev), after the military service he was transferred to the "Scythian" section (head – F. Popov). He completed the School of Instructors in 1987. His ascents include the peaks of the Ak-Sai Horseshoe (Baychechekey – Shvab's route, grade 5B; Svobodnaya Koreya Peak – Barber's route, grade 5A; and many others).
In 1998, he revived the "Polytechnic" section, and Fedor Popov, Sergey Nikishin, and Andrey Puchinin became the coaches of the section. In 1998, the last unconquered six-thousander of Kyrgyzstan – Korumdy Peak (6,613 m) – remained. On Gubaev's initiative, a successful first ascent of this peak was accomplished. For acclimatization, Gubaev's team first ascended an unnamed five-thousander (5,368 m), which, after Alexander's death, came to be known as Gubaev Peak. In 1999, he completed the "Snow Leopard" programme. Alongside his mountaineering activities, Gubaev and his fellow section members organised charity visits to orphanages with concerts and gifts.
In 2002, Alexander ascended Mount McKinley (6,190 m, North America). In 2003, Alexander prepared the Kyrgyzstan team for participation in the 12th Multi-Sport Championship "Raid Gauloises". In 2004, Gubaev became the first Kyrgyzstani to set foot on K2, but he did not return.
Related peaks and places
Posts
01 July 2026
Mountaineering in the 1990s–2000s
In the last years of the USSR, Ala-Archa held first place in the USSR in the number of ascents. The revival of Kyrgyz mountaineering after the dissolution of the USSR flared up in 1997.
29 June 2026
Section "SKIF"
Founded in 1976 by Fyodor Popov. Its climbs include Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rocks (1978) and the "golden" route on Peak Svobodnaya Korea, with first places in All-Union championships.
21 June 2026
Section "Polytechnik" (The Polytechnic)
Founded in 1969 by Anatoly Tustukbaev. At its peak, Polytechnik was the largest mountaineering club in the entire republic and organized expeditions to 7,000-meter peaks.